The PFW this year was a commentary on the world’s erratic climate changes while exploring the latest fashion trends. A German company, GmbH, displayed their spring collection to the tune of Mehdi Hassan’s renowned ghazal Dunya Kisi Ke Pyar Mein as models strutted down the runway.
GbmH teamed up with Muhammad Fatchurofi (also known as Rofi), an Indonesian artist based in Java, to create seasonal prints for their ‘Ghazal’ collection. The corporation shared on Instagram that they were inspired by his ability to express peaceful contemplation in his artwork. Their discussions about the restorative and transforming powers of water inspired these prints. The word ‘LOVE FULL’ is spelled out in drips of water.
In a post, they explained the concept behind the unique walk, “For months, this collection was intended as a fragmented, personal celebration of South Asian beauty and culture as part of our ongoing research into our own heritage(s). GmbH is a project of unlearning as we work towards decolonising our minds. In this process, we are reclaiming a kind of personal spirituality within the complexities between freedom and morality.”
However, things took an unlikely turn as many fans spoke out against this gesture, highlighting the offensive nature of this act. One user expressed that the ghazal “made no sense to use for the ramp and did not gel at all.” Others dubbed the incident mockery, happy that the late singer could not witness it himself.
GbmH also emphasized the accountability of the “Global North” being collectively and primarily responsible for the climate crisis in countries like Pakistan. The flood crisis in Pakistan has dissembled thousands of people, locations, and agricultural lands. Ultimately, the fashion industry faced a severe downfall due to the loss of crops too. According to government estimates, the flooding destroyed more than 45 per cent of the country’s cotton harvests.
The textile and clothing industry contributes 8.5% to Pakistan’s GDP and 40% of its jobs and is pivotal to the country’s economic revival. Therefore, by dedicating their collection, the German organization raised awareness of the flood situation and the effect it has caused on the fashion industry.
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